Table Saw Kick Back

  • 12 Jun 2017 7:28 AM
    Message # 4892569

    G'day All

    I've heard of table saw kick back but until this weekend I hadn't experienced it, I now have a bruise about 8" long and 2 1/2" wide in the groin area, I tell you I was dancing around the shed for a while.  

    I had a piece of wood 4" wide 10" long and wanted to make a cut 4" long to make a piece 4" x4" using the fence as a guide, is there a rule of thumb were you go from using the fence to miter gauge to carry out the cut safely.

    The saw was a 3HP saw stop with a 10" blade.

    I look forward to your advice


  • 13 Jun 2017 8:43 AM
    Reply # 4898062 on 4892569
    ROB COSMAN (Administrator)

    HI Ken, ouch!  The rule I was taught, you need more area against the fence than perpendicular to the fence, otherwise use a miter gauge.  Did you have a splitter/riving knife in place?  I always think of the direction of force I am working against when using that set up.  The blade is pushing back toward me so if I am pushing forward next to the fence the situation is ripe for twisting and that is what often causes the back side of the blade to grab the wood and throw it back.  I push in a diagonal direction to keep the leading edge of the board tight to the fence.  Hope this helps and heal quickly!  p.s.  This never happens on the hand tool side :)

  • 13 Jun 2017 9:57 AM
    Reply # 4898122 on 4892569

    Hi guys,

    Speaking of "kickback".  Be very careful using a stick of any kind to pull a workpiece back  when doing a partial rip (See Tool Cabinet Final Episode 38, 28:10).  Rob was ripping a 1" thick piece of bird's eye to 5/8" using a thin piece of scrap to pull the workpiece back out of the cut.  This is basically what I was doing when kickback bit me.  I was doing a set up for a student and used the push stick to pull the piece back out of the cut.  Unfortunately I was distracted and touched the top of the spinning blade with the tip of the push stick.  The push stick was thrown straight back, tearing my palm open in the process, requiring many stitches.  Your Saw Stop will not protect you from this kind of injury since my hand didn't contact the blade.

    Carry on.


    Last modified: 13 Jun 2017 10:16 AM | Anonymous
  • 14 Jun 2017 3:02 AM
    Reply # 4899282 on 4892569

    Thank you Rob and Larry, I will take on board your advice. Think before I cut

  • 04 Jul 2017 4:17 PM
    Reply # 4932825 on 4892569

    Never ever crosscut against the fence, EVER!!! What you can do is clamp a block to the fence before the blade(operators side of the blade) set your distance to that block. Then using your miter gauge, make the cut. This allows the cut piece to rest with enough room to settle with no pressure on the side of the blade. What caused your kickback was that once you made the cut, the blade forced the wood to rotate, which caused it to bind between the blade and the fence. Make yourself a crosscut sled and use it. I make mine the same width of my tablesaw top minus the extensions. This usually give me enough room to clamp a stopblock to the sled fence for repeated length cuts.

  • 04 Jul 2017 4:20 PM
    Reply # 4932827 on 4892569

    One more thing, if the board I am crosscutting is not twice the width of the blade, than I use miter gauge or crosscut sled

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