Toe Kick

  • 08 Apr 2017 2:54 PM
    Message # 4736878

    Rob, why are you measuring the height of the toe kick to the top of your dado?

    I think you said it was 3 3/4" and you were measuring to the top. Wouldn't you want to measure to the bottom of the dado and add 1/16. I could not see your measurement on the bottom foot but it looked to be about 1".

    Assuming your dado is about 3/4", wouldn't your birdseye need to be cut to 3 1/16" plus the foot thickness?

  • 08 Apr 2017 8:09 PM
    Reply # 4737333 on 4736878

    I agree with Rich.  I just watched the Episode 13 video and you measured from bottom of your side board up to and including the full depth of your dado.  There is a bottom shelf going into that dado so you do not need to measure to the top of the dado.  Your best bet would be to put the bottom board in place now and measure the whole distance required as assembled.  You should find that your 8 1/4" Birdseye Maple board will be plenty tall enough to split for two toekicks.

    Dave B.

    Last modified: 08 Apr 2017 8:11 PM | Dave
  • 10 Apr 2017 4:27 AM
    Reply # 4738924 on 4736878

    Hey Rob,

    Any concerns about expansion?  Wouldn't the Toe Kick and the brace in the back being Solid wood put pressure on the MDF if or when it expands?  I would have made it our of MDF with a solid wood strip along the bottom to protect the MDF edge.

    Any thoughts? 


  • 10 Apr 2017 1:18 PM
    Reply # 4739653 on 4736878

    Hello all. 

    Another issue mentioned, and it may be too late, but to attach the bottom to the side, since it will be hidden, a cleat attached to the side, in between the toe kick and the rear brace might be a good way to re-inforce the joint. It would provide a way to screw in the side to the bottom.


  • 10 Apr 2017 11:06 PM
    Reply # 4740597 on 4736878

    Appears he figured it out ;)

  • 11 Apr 2017 9:57 AM
    Reply # 4746098 on 4736878

    In episode 14, at around 25:00 where Rob is gluing the floor to the side and trying to develop a clamping strategy, it seems an efficient solution would have been to cut a length of scrap to put into one of the dadoes on "our" viewing side and used a wood handscrew clamp to hold the scrap it in place. This would enable him to clamp closer to the benchtop and  help square the joints. Those old wooden handscrews help out clamping long pieces many times. A thin scrap pinched into any of those many dadoes by the handscrew and he could pull it down on both sides using the clamp and the scrap as purchase points. I think a couple of scraps temporarily slipped into the dadoes where both toe kicks will wind up, would help align and square the glueup while clamping as well. I really think dry assembling helps so much in developing a clamping strategy and determine problems before spreading the glue.


E-Mail Support                                                                                                                      

Rob Cosman's Signature Hand Tools

This site is maintained by AlphaOneStudios
Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software